Monday, March 6, 2017

Deer-Resistant Plants

If there's one thing we have in common as gardeners, it's the need to ward off unwelcome wildlife. For many, that means deer. If the best defense is a good offense, then it makes sense to start by choosing deer resistant plants.

Plants Deer Like to Eat
  • Deer love narrow-leaf evergreens, especially arborvitae and fir, and show a preference for hostas, daylilies, and English ivy.
  • The heaviest garden browsing is from October through February.
  • Many growers note that deer seem to prefer plants that have been fertilized.

Plants Deer Do Not Like to Eat (Usually)
Bear in mind that the first rule of deer-proofing is that there are really no plants that are completely deer-proof. Nevertheless, here are plants that deer (usually) do not like to eat:
  • Deer tend to stay away from poisonous plants. Daffodils, foxgloves, and poppies are common flowers that have a toxicity that deer avoid.
  • Deer turn their noses up at fragrant plants with strong scents. Herbs such as sages, ornamental salvias, lavenders, peonies, and bearded irises are among these “stinky” plants.
  • Deer do not like plants that are prickly (unless they’re desperate), such as lamb’s ear.
    Bleeding hearts are popular with us, but not deer.
  • French Marigold
  • Alyssum
  • Bear's Breeches
  • Dusty Miller
  • Butterfly Weed
  • Flowering Tobacco
  • Rosemary
  • Caryopteris
  • Lantana
  • Mint
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Snapdragon
  • Crape Myrtle
  • Crocosmia
  • Strawflower
  • African Lily
  • Dianthus
  • Fountain Grass
  • Epimedium
  • Heather
  • Goldenrod
  • Yucca
  • Joe Pye Weed
  • Zinnia
  • New Zeland Flax
  • Aster
  • Brunnera
  • Red-Hot Poker
  • Wisteria
  • Astible
  • Russian Sage
  • Asparagus
  • Sea Holly
  • Verbena
  • Sweet Woodruff
  • Catmint
  • Lily of the Valley
  • Lily of the Nile
  • Bee Balm
  • Lungwort
  • Yarrow
  • Monkshood
  • Onion
  • Horseradish
  • Tarragon
  • Silver Mound
  • Wild Ginger
  • Barberry
  • Dusty Miller
  • Wood Fern

Friday, March 3, 2017

You Might Consider Lawn Painting

What is lawn painting, and why would anybody be interested in painting the lawn green? It may sound bizarre, but DIY lawn painting isn’t as far-fetched as you might think. Read on to discover more about the benefits of coloring your lawn, and how to paint lawn turf.

What is Lawn Painting?
Lawn paint has been a landscaper’s secret weapon at athletic fields and golf courses for years, but the current drought is prompting homeowners to consider lawn painting as a way to maintain an emerald green lawn when water is in short supply.

Good quality lawn paint is formulated to be biodegradable and safe for the environment. Once the lawn paint dries, the painted turf is safe for children and pets. The color won’t run on dewy mornings, a rainfall won’t wash it off, and it won’t rub off on your clothes. Painted grass usually retains its color two to three months and sometimes much longer. However, frequency of mowing, type of grass, weather and rate of new growth all affect the color. In some cases, the color may fade in two to three weeks.

How to Paint Lawn Turf
So if you would like to give DIY lawn painting a try, purchase lawn paint at a garden center or landscaping service. Don’t scrimp. Good paint is easier to apply. It will look better and last longer.
Paint your lawn on a dry, sunny, windless day. Mow your lawn and rake up grass clippings and yard debris. If you’ve watered the grass recently, let it dry before you paint because the paint won’t stick to damp grass. Use plastic sheeting to cover anything you don’t want to paint, including brick or concrete patios, driveways, garden mulch and fence posts. Secure the plastic with masking tape.

Unless your lawn is huge, you can apply lawn paint using a hand sprayer with a fine spray nozzle. A pump sprayer works better for larger lawns, while a spray paint system is more efficient for super large or commercial landscapes. With the nozzle about 7 inches from the turf, apply the paint in a back and forth motion to ensure all sides of the grass are evenly colored.If any paint lands where you don’t want it, remove it immediately with ammonia-based window spray and a wire brush.

Remember that unless it rains occasionally, you still need to water your lawn enough to keep it alive.

Thursday, March 2, 2017

Best Trees for the Backyard

Having trees in your backyard not only shade your house, but also provide a space for playing and relaxing on hot summer days. Consider using these trees in your backyard for a shady, enjoyable environment, even in the heat of summer.

Royal Empress Tree
Many times, it takes trees quite a while before reaching their mature size. Royal Empress Tree is an exception to this. With a rapid growth that is unrivaled by any other tree, (12 to 15 feet in a single year!) Royal Empress Tree is a tree that will shade your yard quickly. Reaching at least 40 feet in the air, and 30 feet in spread in under 4 years, this tree will provide you with deep shade that will make the hot summer months tolerable. Use this tree without any concern for invading, as this species will not spread throughout your yard. Winter highlights the fuzzy flower buds, and in the spring, the lavender flowers cover the tree, filling the air with their sweet scent.

Shumard Oak
Oak trees not only make great shade trees, but also provide wildlife with plenty of habitat. Shumard oak is a spectacular oak tree, because of it’s stature (up to 90 feet tall and 60 feet wide at maturity), and it’s fall color. Unlike most oaks, Shumard oak turns a brilliant red in the fall, rivaling the maples and other trees. The acorns reach up to an inch in size, making them perfect for wildlife and for young imaginations. Use this tree in an area where you want a tree that is large and hardy, as Shumard oak is sure to live up to both of those statements.

Brandywine Maple
Most people think of maples and think of the seeds that pile up and clog gutters.  Brandywine maple is a tree with only male flowers in the spring– meaning there are  no pesky seeds to clean up. In addition, Brandywine maple turns gorgeous reddish purple in the fall, providing you with color that can’t be found anywhere else. With a mature size of 25 feet tall by 15 feet wide, it is the perfect size for a backyard where you want some shade but don’t want the entire yard engulfed by a tree.

While these trees all would look beautiful in both your front and back yards, these trees will make a stellar addition to your backyard – especially in an area where you want some shade without major cleanup when the leaves fall. In addition to the great color and shade, there are plenty of opportunities for imaginative minds to find unique adventures in the canopy. Consider using one of these trees in your backyard landscape and enjoy the unique benefits they provide.

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Best Trees for the Front Yard

Your front yard is the place where your guests and neighbors make their first impression about your house, so having a tree in the front yard that makes a statement is essential. Having a tree with large leaves and little to no fruit or seeds dropping makes yard clean-ups much easier, but there’s no need to sacrifice the beauty of trees for something utilitarian. Consider some of these trees for that perfect front-yard pop that is sure to make a statement all year round.

Bloodgood Japanese Maple
Red foliage is one of those aspects that turns heads and always stands out, regardless of season. Bloodgood Japanese Maple has that stunning red foliage – not only in the fall, but also in the spring and summer. Because it only grows 15 to 20 feet in height and width, it is a perfect tree to include in your front yard. It won’t overshadow everything, and you’ll be able to look out your window and enjoy the purple-red foliage and delicate branches year-round. Since it is more tolerant of (and even prefers) part-shade environments, you can put it in places where other trees may not thrive as well, including closer to your house. Planting a Bloodgood Japanese Maple with other green-foliage plants will really help it to pop and turn heads.

Chaste Tree
Blue is not a color that is easily found in flowers, and it’s even more challenging in trees. But the Chaste Tree will provide those blue flowers in a season when it seems like everything is only green – summer. With a maximum size of 15-25 feet in any given direction, this tree is sure to provide your front yard with some summer color. When it is not blooming, enjoy the grey-green foliage and in the winter, the beautiful branch structure. Tolerant of less-than-perfect environments, the Chaste Tree is a tree that is sure to please all year round, and make your house the most noticeable on the block!

Weeping Cherry
Cherries are known for their beautiful flowers in the spring, and this tree is no exception. In addition to the flowers, this tree’s branches cascade toward the ground, creating an exceptional and interesting sight. Growing to approximately 25 feet at full maturity, a weeping cherry will be sure to be the talk of the neighborhood. As an added bonus, the weeping branches create a space that is perfect for a playhouse as they mature and get close to sweeping the ground. Enjoy the distinctive form of this tree throughout the year.

All of these trees bring a bit of character to your front yard. From purple foliage in the spring and summer to flowers in a brilliant blue to branches that sweep the ground, there is sure to be a tree perfect for your front yard. Enjoy the beauty these trees provide, and be sure to be the talk of the neighborhood!

Tuesday, February 28, 2017

10 Plants for Depression, Stress, or Anxiety

Just being outside, whether you’re gardening, exercising, or simply taking a stroll, is a great mood booster. But getting your hands dirty in the garden is so effective at combating depression, stress, and anxiety that it’s often used in “horticultural therapy” at psychiatric hospitals. So if you feel like your energy levels are dropping or you’re just too stressed out at work, plant yourself a good-mood garden. You'll not only get the benefits of a little garden therapy, but you'll benefit from the mood-boosting nutrients present in these healthy foods, too. Turns out, certain vegetables and herbs are rich in antidepressant compounds and minerals that can take the edge off a bad day and even help alleviate full-blown depression.

Here’s a guide to get you started—10 of the most potent antidepressant foods and herbs, and how to grow them anywhere.

Swiss Chard
EAT
All types of chard are packed with magnesium, a nutrient essential for the biochemical reactions in the brain that boost your energy levels. In fact, magnesium deficiency is a common condition among people diagnosed with clinical depression.

GROW
Chard is a hardy crop that, if planted even as late as summer, will produce until early winter. Pick a spot that gets a fair amount of sunlight; it can tolerate shade but produces best with lots of sun. Or choose a container that's about 12 inches wide and 12 inches deep and fill it with a good all-purpose organic potting soil. Sow between 2 and 3 seeds per pot. You can start harvesting leaves as soon as they appear, but harvest from the outside so as not to kill the entire plant.

Blue Potatoes
EAT
The anthocyanin antioxidants in rare—but tasty!—blue potatoes reduce inflammation that can lead to bad moods. Their skin is also packed with iodine, which helps stabilize thyroid hormone levels, thus warding off mood swings.

GROW
Potatoes are about the easiest crops to grow. You can even grow them in a bag of potting soil, without really dirtying your hands. To do that, cut a few drainage holes at the bottom of a bag of potting soil, then stand the bag someplace sunny. Bury two "seed potatoes" about 4 inches deep, and wait about 3 months for them to grow. When flowers start to appear, tip the bag over and dig out the potatoes. To keep the harvest going long into the fall, plant a new set of seed potatoes every few weeks.

Cherry Tomatoes
EAT
Tomato skin is rich in lycopene, a phytonutrient that actually stops the buildup of pro-inflammatory compounds linked to depression. Because lycopene lives in tomato skins, the best way to get it is through cherry tomatoes, whose smaller surface area means you'll eat more skin than if you eat a full-size tomato.

GROW
Cherry tomatoes are good choices for containers, and they'll produce more fruit than larger varieties. The pots should be large—one that holds 4 to 6 gallons of potting soil will do—and placed in a sunny spot. In June, find some organic cherry-tomato seedlings at a local nursery or farmers’ market (big-box-store tomato plants can be very disease-prone), and plant them so that the first row of leaves is covered by dirt. Depending on the variety you grow, cherry tomatoes can take about 2 to 3 months to start bearing fruit.

Black-Eyed Peas
EAT
Black-eyed peas have some of the highest levels of folate of any vegetable. It’s thought that folate plays a role in creating dopamine, serotonin, and norepinephrine, three brain chemicals that, when absent, can make you forgetful, irritable, and unable to sleep.

GROW
Black-eyed peas need long summers with temperatures averaging between 60° and 70°F, which is why they're so commonly grown down South. They need warm days and warm nights, with lots of sun and water. After you plant them, they'll be ready to harvest in a little over three months. You can eat them fresh off the vine, or leave them on the vine until they dry (you'll hear seeds rattling around in the pods) and save them to eat all winter.

Oregano
EAT
Oregano is rich in caffeic acid, quercitin, and rosmarinic acid, all components that combat depression, fatigue, and anxiety.

GROW
Oregano, like most herbs, is easy to grow. Look for a seedling at a local nursery, pot it, and just water as needed, leaving the soil on the dry side. It thrives better in containers, but make sure your pot is fairly large—at least 12 inches across—as this plant can grow pretty quickly.

Sunflowers
EAT
Sunflower seeds are a great source for the antidepressant phenylalanine, an amino acid the body turns into norepinephrine.

GROW
Sunflowers like sun, obviously, but be sure to plant them in a sunny spot on the north edge of your yard or garden so they don’t cast too much shade on other sun-loving plants. Plant your seeds after the last frost. Towards the end of summer, the flowers start to wilt and the seed heads ripen and droop. When the seeds in the seed heads start to turn brown, cut them along with 2 feet of stem and hang upside down in a dry, well-ventilated place, such as a garage or attic, until fully dry; store in plastic bags for birds and animal food. To eat, soak overnight in water (or strong salt water, if a salty flavor is desired), drain, spread on a shallow baking sheet, and roast for 3 hours at 200°F or until crisp.

Chamomile
DRINK
There’s a reason a cup of chamomile tea just before bed helps you sleep. Just like oregano, it’s rich in stress-reducing caffeic acid and quercitin, but it tastes much better in the form of tea, which you can make from your garden herbs by steeping chamomile flowers in boiling water for about 10 minutes.

GROW
German chamomile is best for teas, as opposed to other varieties that can taste bitter. Since it can grow wild and take over your garden, it’s best suited for containers. A small container about 6 inches wide by 6 inches deep will suffice, but a bigger pot will yield a bigger harvest. It prefers full sun and should be planted in late spring, when there’s no risk for frost.

Evening Primrose
EAT
Evening primrose is technically a wildflower. Its seeds have the highest levels of tryptophan (which your body uses to make mood-boosting serotonin) of any plant. In the fall, when the flowers mature, the flowers’ seed pods begin to fill up. Harvest a few and grind them as you would flaxseed into your favorite dishes.

GROW
Evening primrose is drought-tolerant and easy to grow either in containers or in the ground. You can find varieties with flowers ranging from deep reds to light yellows. Sow the seeds in groups of four. They’ll start to appear in 14 to 28 days.

Lavender
SMELL
Gardens don’t have to be all about edibles (even though you can eat lavender). According to the University of Maryland Medical Center, aromatherapy treatments involving lavender and a few other herbs are often used to supplement depression treatments, because the scent is so relaxing.

GROW
Plant a lavender seedling in a container made from a material that breathes, such as terra-cotta, and choose a pot about 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep. Place your pot in an area that gets lots of sunlight; lavender loves dry, sunny areas. English lavender is both fragrant and edible, if you feel like adding some lavender flowers to your cooking.

St. John's Wort
DRINK
The most famous herbal antidepressant, St. John’s Wort contains compounds similar to those found in Prozac. The flowers and leaves are the most valuable part of the plant and can be brewed into a tea that will calm you down and boost your mood. Just note that St. John’s Wort has many adverse drug interactions, so check with a pharmacist if you’re on any medications.

GROW
Another herb that’s often viewed as a weed, St. John’s Wort should be grown in containers to keep it from spreading where you don’t want it. It’s pretty easy to grow. Just find a seedling or some seeds and plant them in a small container placed in a partially sunny/partially shady area. Plant the herb in spring, and by July you’ll start to see leaves. But flowers won’t show up until the second year (St. John’s Wort is a perennial, so you can leave it in its pot all winter and it’ll grow back on its own).

Monday, February 27, 2017

Designing a Butterfly Garden

Invite butterflies to set up housekeeping in your yard with a butterfly garden design. The best butterfly gardens welcome not only spotlight-stealing adults with their colorful wings, but also encourage their humble beginnings: caterpillars. By including plants that nourish adult butterflies along with their caterpillar precursors, your butterfly garden design can create a place where nature rules. Learn what it takes to have an effective butterfly garden design.

Use a two-pronged approach to your butterfly garden by including attributes that attract adult butterflies, as well as their young. To fuel adults with ample food, include a variety of nectar-rich bloomers. Intermingle flowers with different forms, like a flat-blossomed zinnia that provides a wide landing pad for butterflies or a spikey Summer Jewel salvia.

Plan your garden to have non-stop color to keep the butterflies coming. Most butterfly garden designs incorporate quite a few annuals to help achieve a steady flower show. Good annual candidates for a butterfly garden include creeping zinnia, marigold, mealycup sage, Mexican sunflower, and pentas.

It’s also wise to include perennials in your design to give your garden year-round interest. Perennials that butterflies favor include butterfly bush, garden phlox, bee balm, and purple coneflower.

Arrange bloomers in drifts so that near-sighted butterflies can easily spot the large swaths of color. Focus on flowers that feature bright tones in your butterfly garden design. Most butterflies can’t resist blossoms in shades of pink, red, purple, and yellow. These winged wonders also have a strong sense of smell and are lured by fragrant flowers. Remove spent blossoms in your butterfly garden faithfully to coax more flower buds to form.

Develop your butterfly garden design for a sunny location, since both butterflies and most of the plants they feast on thrive in sun. Try to choose a spot protected from wind. Include a watering hole in your butterfly garden design. Adult butterflies like to sip salts, moisture and minerals from moist sand or damp earth. Build a butterfly puddle by sinking a shallow pot saucer into soil and filling it with sand. Maintain a water level that’s just below the sand’s surface.

Surround your puddle with a ring of flat stones that can absorb sunlight and provide a place for butterflies to sun. Try to site your stones where they’ll absorb morning sunlight. Butterflies are cold-blooded and seek spots to bask and warm their wings for flight.

Many butterfly gardens focus solely on the winged portion of a butterfly’s life cycle, and you certainly must attract the adults before you can hope for a caterpillar. By including plants that caterpillars like to munch in your butterfly garden design, you’ll improve your chances of hosting a caterpillar. If you’re lucky, you may even get to witness an adult butterfly emerging from a chrysalis.

Caterpillars feed on specific plants, so you’ll have to do some research to stock your garden with plants that caterpillars native to your region find tasty. The one thing caterpillars consistently do is munch, munch, munch. It’s a good idea to tuck plants destined to satisfy voracious caterpillar appetites into a less visible portion of your butterfly garden design. Place this section where you can easily visit and observe caterpillars, but not front and center where chewed—and even missing—leaves will detract from the garden’s beauty.

Friday, February 24, 2017

Terrarium Makovers

If you’ve been taking good care of your terrarium, there’s a good chance that the plants will begin to outgrow the space. Or maybe you let the watering go a bit too long and the plants are brown and crunchy. It’s okay! It happens to the best of us. Give your terrarium a makeover every few years to keep it looking beautiful.

It doesn’t mean that it’s time to toss the whole thing out, though. A terrarium makeover is a wonderful form of garden therapy. I promise your interest in it will be as renewed as the plants are! And don't be afraid to get creative!

Materials
  • Terrarium
  • Indoor potting soil
  • 2″ pots of tropical houseplants or succulents
  • Bark, stones, moss, and other decorative items

Make(over) it!
  • Start by removing everything in the terrarium. Any overgrown plants can be transplanted into larger pots while you head out and shop for some new ones.
  • Not everyone uses drainage rocks in their terrarium designs. Sometimes, the space for the soil is too precious to give up for pebbles. Instead, water carefully and thoughtfully.
  • To know when to water, simply test the soil with your finger. If the soil is cool and moist, water isn’t needed. If it is dry and warm, it’s time to water. After you have watered, check back in 30 minutes. Has the water all absorbed into the soil? You can test it by tipping the terrarium to see if any water pours out. If so, you have overwatered. Soon you will learn the right amount to give the terrarium and it won’t be much of an issue.
  • Some terrarium keepers say that misting the plants and soil with a spray bottle is equally effective.
  • Tip: keep a thin-spouted watering can nearby so you can quickly water the terrarium if it feels dry. It’s not a fail-proof system, but many gardeners swear by it.
  • You can also add charcoal to the soil. It keeps the soil “sweet,” meaning it helps to remove odor and toxins that can result from standing water.
  • Lay out the plants on the soil to get a feel for the design. Place taller plants at the back of the terrarium and shorter ones at the front. Choose complementary foliage textures and colors. If all of the plants have variegated broad leaves, it will look like just one large plant.
  • Remove the plants from the nursery pots and plant them in the soil. Water the soil well and pour off any excess water that isn’t absorbed in 30 minutes.
  • Once the plants are in, get creative with decorative elements. Items such as found bark and stones look right at home in a terrarium, as do moss, glass, ceramic, and miniature garden figurines.













The design is where you can get creative and show off your personality!